If you’re a fan of Top Chef, or even if you’re not, the sight of Tom Colicchio’s oh-so-serious purnim, attached to his lovely bald pate, is a familiar one. His quasi-national brainchild, Craft (which spawned Craftbar, Wich’Craft, and Craftsteak), is almost as ubiquitous a culinary brand as Rachael’s (okay, that’s a stretch); dinner or lunch at his establishments costs a very hefty chunk of change. So even I sat up and took notice when EATER NY announced that Colicchio was launching a Friday night, all-$10 menu to be served in Craft’s private dining room, and created by his executive chef, Damon Wise. Which is, um, very wise.
But let’s remember that Colicchio is a businessman’s businessman and a pro at branding; the sight of an empty private dining room would drive him (or any chef/owner) crazy because it’s unused real estate. Anyway, I started thinking about this new Frugal Friday menu and what a good idea it seemed to be, all around. But as I read the piece in EATER, I realized something: the point is being missed, entirely.
Someone, help me here.
Unless you’re dining with a large group of people, isn’t the idea of a seven course meal for $100 a little excessive on all fronts? Isn’t $100 $100? And who on earth right now is lusting after seven or ten-course meals? What happened to simplicity, and to scaling back? Meat on a stick? Why go to Craft for meat on a stick when you can get the best in the city at Sammy’s Halal? Small pizzas? Food in a jar?
Doesn’t the concept of a lot of food for $100 (instead of $300 or $400) stink of the uniquely American construct of “gee, ya sure do get a lot of food fer yer money!” Does Colicchio honestly think that, in a city like New York, where cheap street food can be truly spectacular, $100 for a big dinner is a bargain? I mean, you can get the same thing at Ruby Tuesday’s, right?
Over the Christmas break, I experienced what I consider to be the finest example of money-conscious restaurant genius at work; no one has really noticed this place in New York, partly because it is located outside of New York, in Connecticut’s vital artery for incredible food: New Haven. I’ve long been a fan of chef/restaurateur Prasad Chirnomula and Thali. And while it’s tough to get out of the place for less than $125 for a three course dinner for two plus wine and tip, it doesn’t matter. Budget isn’t why you go to this spectacular, gorgeous, Michelin-worthy Indian restaurant.
But last year, I started hearing a buzz over Chirnomula’s newest baby, Thali Too, also located in New Haven. Strictly vegetarian, it promised taste, value, and reasonably healthy food in a magnificent, loft-like setting. For reasons I don’t understand, I never made it there until two weeks ago, and after lunch, I was speechless.
There is nothing on the wide-ranging, soul-filling menu that’s over $10.00.
There’s a full bar.
The food, especially the panki (a lentil and green chile crepe grilled between two banana leaves and served with garlic chutney), and dosas (the chef made a 4 foot long one for a large party, sitting next to us), is/are remarkable.
We had a lunch of five, small, street food-style dishes and two hot cups of freshly made chai. We ate far more than we should have, and could likely have fed two more people.
The bill? $26 or thereabouts, with tip.
As far as I’m concerned, Thali Too should be the model for all high-end restaurants wanting to offer their patrons value and taste in a fabulous atmosphere. Prasad Chirnomula may not be Top Chef by Bravo’s standards, but he certainly is by mine. If you can get to New Haven, go to Thali Too before the lines get so long that you’ll have to go out for pizza instead. And even in New Haven, that would be a shame.
