A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread, and a Block of Velveeta: Hastening the Road to Amour

His jug of wine was probably cheap swill, his loaf of bread, likely simple. And the object of his affection certainly wasn’t moping around the Valentine’s Day section at the local card shop, hoping to come home to a dozen Willapa oysters, foie gras, a bottle of vintage Krug, and all of those other mildly pornographic delights which are reputed to hasten the road to amour for everyone on February 14th, the libidinally sleepy included. If Mr. Khayyam was shopping for Valentine’s Day today, he would have been flat broke.

And honestly, that’s just not what Valentine’s Day is about, is it? Granted, thanks to marketing geniuses far and wide, we’re bombarded by images of beautiful, hand-holding couples sitting at restaurants like New York City’s Masa, where, half a decade ago, you could have a sushi tasting menu for one and it would set you back $350, as it did for the erstwhile New York Times restaurant critic, Frank Bruni, who once described his toro fairly sensually as “buttery belly of bluefin tuna.”

Or, Valentine’s Day could mean expecting to come home to a table set for two by your better half, a bottle of Cristal chilling in a champagne bucket, and Ravel’s Bolero playing in the background. Very nice.

Who are these people?

First: Even though Valentine’s Day falls on a Sunday night this year, Monday is a national holiday, which means the kids will be home and wanting breakfast first thing in the morning. So if you have children, whatever it is you’re thinking, think again.

Second: Special doesn’t have to mean expensive, or fancy. A friend of mine with exceptional taste did splurge on a nice bottle of Barolo for herself and her husband, which will accompany a steak (which she’ll likely prepare magnificently). Another friend is making oeufs en meurette, which, if I had a choice, might be my last meal on earth. On the occasion of our second Valentine’s Day together, Susan, who was a poor freelancer at the time, carved I ♥ U out of a block of Velveeta; she wanted to give me something that would last forever, and I’m pleased to say it did. It sat in the bowels of my fridge, wrapped in plastic and entombed in an old Anchor Hocking container with nary a drop of mold until last year, almost ten years after the fact. Now that was special.

My sense these days is that whatever our cultural lexicon/advertising industry is imploring you to do, it’s probably wise to do the exact opposite. Shelve the excess, and the screaming consumerism, and go simple: my dish of choice on Valentine’s Day, if I’m cooking at home, is nearly always roasted salmon and French lentils, which are braised in red wine, along with thyme, shallots, and pancetta. Dessert, if we make it at all, is a diminutive portion of chocolate pot de creme, and a glass of Banyuls.

So when you hear stories of $350 Valentine’s Day tasting menus, and bottles of vintage Krug, don’t worry. Take control and just make a nice dinner. Failing that, there’s always Velveeta.

Salmon with French Lentils Braised in Red Wine

Made a day prior to serving, the smoky flavor of this classic lentil recipe, which was adapted from one appearing in 1997, in Metropolitan Home, has a chance to deepen and develop. Reheat the lentils in a stickproof sauté pan while the salmon is cooking.

For Lentils (can be made a day in advance):

2 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil

½ Cup Pancetta, diced in ¼ inch cubes

½ Cup minced shallots

½ Cup peeled and diced carrots

½ Cup diced celery

1 Cup Dry Red Wine

2 Cups Lentils, preferably Lentils du Puy

6 Cups Chicken Stock

2 Tablespoons Fresh Thyme Leaves (or 1 Tablespoon Dry)

½ Cup Chopped Tomatoes

1 teaspoon of unsalted butter (optional)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For Salmon:

2 4-ounce salmon fillets, skin removed

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 Tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1-1/2 Teaspoons Lemon Juice

1-1/2 Teaspoons Unsalted Butter

Prepare the lentils by sautéing the pancetta in a medium-sized soup pot, until their almost crisp and they have released their fat. Add the shallots, the carrots, and the celery.

When the shallots are translucent, add the red wine and simmer over a medium-low flame until all of the liquid is evaporated. Add the lentils, the chicken stock, and the thyme.

Simmer the lentils over medium-low heat, about 35 minutes until tender. Once they are cooked, add the tomatoes, stir in the butter if desired, and season to taste. If re-heating, place in a stick-proof pan, and warm gently, tossing carefully until warmed throughout.

Season the salmon fillets with salt and ground pepper to taste.

In a medium-sized, stick-proof skillet, heat the olive oil until rippling but not smoking. Carefully place the fillets flesh-side down in the pan, reducing heat if necessary. Cook for 6 minutes without moving the fish. Turn and cook for 3 another minutes. Add the lemon juice and butter to the pan. Remove to a platter, drizzle with the sauce, loosely drape with foil and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

To serve, place a large helping of lentils on each plate, place a salmon fillet over each portion, and drizzle with lemon and butter juice over all.

(Re-heat leftover lentils the following day, and top with a poached egg and a small salad, for lunch.)

Chocolate Pot de Crème with Berries

Make these lovely desserts a day or two in advance, in small, child-sized pudding cups that you know are heat-proof (or heatproof Duralex drinking glasses).

1 Cup Heavy Whipping Cream

¼ Cup Whole Milk (no skimping)

2-1/2 ounces of bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, of excellent quality, chopped

¼ Teaspoon Real Vanilla Extract

3 Large Egg Yolks

3-1/2 Tablespoons Sugar

Fresh berries (if you can get them)

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a medium-sized saucepan set over medium-low heat, bring the cream and milk to a simmer together, and immediately remove from the heat. Add the chocolate a few pieces at a time, and the vanilla extract, and whisk well until the chocolate is completely melted and the extract incorporated.